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Kandinsky Vest
My first in the vest series is the Kandinsky vest, inspired by the whimsical yet
geometric shapes and saturated colors of the Russian painter, Wassily Kandinsky.
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Design Process
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FABRIC: I create felted wool from wool jersey fabric. The fabric is prepared by
basting the edges together to avoid distortion, then it is washed in very hot
water with soap and dried in the dryer. Not all fabrics react identically to
heat and moisture. The process requires from one to three cycles to develop the
texture desired. The fabric shrinks about 40 to 50% in length and 25% in width.
The finished fabric does not ravel, so it is a perfect choice for appliqué. In
addition, no edge finishes are required, no facings are required, and the
shoulder and side seams are constructed with lapped seams. The wool vest
provides warmth without weight.
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VEST SHAPE AND SIZES: The Kandinsky vest has curved front points and is shorter
in back than in front. The V neckline closes with one artful button. Thus, when
seated, the vest points open gracefully. The vest is available in sizes XS, S,
M, and L. Four inches of ease is provided to the bust circumference for each
size (please refer to Size Chart). The
price $150.
Gentle shaping is accomplished by ease basting then steam shrinking the armhole and neckline to shape the vest to the body contours. The medium and large sizes include a dart originating in the armhole to fit the bustline. A prototype (sample) vest is made in each size and a fit model is used to
verify the fit. |
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APPLIQUÉ DESIGN INSPIRATION and PROCESS: Appliquéd shapes are well-suited to
felted wool. I have collected examples of Kandinsky's paintings for years. They
were pinned to my design wall and used as my inspiration to design the appliqué
shapes.
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Colored pencils are used to draw the "cartoon" onto the vest pattern.
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| The pattern with cartoon is pinned to the dress form to confirm the placement for the appliqués. |
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CONSTRUCTION PROCESS: After cutting out the vest and appliqués pieces in felted
wool, the appliqué pieces are pinned in place and checked carefully.
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| Most of the appliqués are sewn to the separate vest pieces. Then one side seam and one shoulder seam are sewn. Next the appliqués that cross those seams are sewn. Finally the remaining shoulder seam and side seam are sewn. | 
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SAMPLES: Final steps include sewing the button hole, ease basting and steam
shaping the armholes and neckline, then adding two rows of stitching to
stabilize the neckline/front/hemline and armholes. The button is sewn on, and
the vest receives a final steam pressing.
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| CARE: To avoid stretching the knit structure, it is recommended that your vest be stored flat. Dry clean or hand wash in cool water (Orvus soap recommended), rinse well, and dry flat. Enjoy! |
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